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Trip Report “Krakow, 31st October to 5th November 2010. |
| This was my fifth visit to Krakow (I must be becoming a Krakow anorak!). On this occasion my partner Jackie kindly agreed to accompany me. Before we left the UK I had jotted down a list of objectives for this trip to Krakow: they were:- (a) Visit the new museum under the Cloth Hall in the main market Sq. (b) A trip to the salt mines (c) Have another meal in the Panorama Restaurant (d) Schindler’s factory (e) To see Rakowick Cemetery on All Saints evening Well this time I managed 3 out of 5. |
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Trip report Proper.
The flight over was on time. We took the free shuttle bus from the airport terminal to the airport train station and in no time at all we had arrived at Krakow’s main railway station (Dworzee Glowny), which is within easy walking distance of the old town. As we had a few hours between arriving in the centre of Krakow and booking into our accommodation, we put our luggage into ‘left luggage’ at the main railway station and went off explore Krakow (again).
Despite being late October the weather was perfect for sitting out and just watching the world go by. So by twelve thirty we found ourselves sat out at a watering-hole on Florianska Street with refreshing drinks, just soaking in the atmosphere. At one o’clock we heard the familiar sound of the Bejnat (bugle call) from the tower of St Mary’s Church in the Main Square. The bugle call seemed to beckon us on to Market Square. We therefore walked the short distance to Cafe Kawiarnia Bankowa, 47 Rynek Glowny, one of my favourite Cafes in Krakow. We both sampled their famous omelettes, followed by a few drinks. I was pleasantly surprised, remembering the time of year, how many establishments still had their tables and chairs set up outside in the main square.
The three o’clock ‘Bejnat Call’ reminded us that it was time to collect our luggage and make our way to the studio to book in.
We did some essential shopping at the small mini-market near to the studio, as the next day was All Saints Day, a national holiday in Poland. Later we had a very pleasant evening meal at Europejska Café in the main square. Not the cheapest place in Krakow, but the beefsteak was mouth wateringly good.
Normally in my trip report I just describe the first day and then give an account of the rest of the trip as ‘High Lights’ (and ‘Low Lights’) of the other days. But because the next day ‘All Saints Day’ was so different, I will go into a little more detail.
All Saints Day. 1St Nov.
Enjoyed a full English breakfast sat outside Europejska Café. We do love to eat outside, but never believed that we would be so lucky with the weather, in Krakow, as late as November. We then spent the rest of the morning just leisurely wandering around the Old Town.
Then it was off to All Saints Sq (Pl Wszystkich Swinetych) to catch the tram to Jubilat, for a light lunch at the Panorama Restaurant. For some reason the Panorama was closed, I presume it was because of the Bank Holiday.
As it was a lovely day, we walked along the riverbank towards the Royal Castle (Wawel Hill). One of the moored boats, just below the Castle was open for business, so we spent an hour or two over a light snack and a few drinks.
We decided to head back to the studio for a rest. Armed with the ‘tram map’, which I had downloaded from the Internet, we waited for a number 10 Tram at the Wawel bus-stop. We waited and waited but no number 10 came past, just lots and lots of tram number 93, all nearly full of locals clutching bunches of flowers. (The 93 tram was not marked on my map). Then it dawned on me, the number 10 tram had been replaced by the 93 that was re-routed via Rakowicki Cemetery. So we squeezed on to the next one and finally made it to Dworzec Glowny, the nearest tram stop to the studio. Just when I thought I had sussed Krakow’s tram system, they change it all - just for that one day!
Late afternoon I went out again (leaving Jackie back in the studio with a good book). Firstly just around the corner from the studio, to Hotel Europejski for a quick drink. Then just managed to get onto tram number 93 heading towards the cemetery. It was just getting dark when I alighted from the tram at Rakowicki Cemetery. The road was crowded with locals making their way to the main gate. The police were in attendance controlling the traffic so that pedestrians could cross the road. The Cemetery was ablaze with lights from thousands of candles on the graves. Mass could be heard (chanted) booming out from loud speakers. A small procession of Clerics were making their way around the graves blessing them with incense. It was a very moving experience.
To be continued……….. Part Two (the final part) should be ready by early February
